Post by Suzanah on Mar 30, 2015 16:21:37 GMT -5
Fin rot (also called tail rot) is one of the most common, as well as most preventable, diseases in aquarium fish.
Although it is caused by several types of bacteria and often occurs concurrently with other diseases, the root cause of Fin Rot is generally environmental in nature.
Fish stress is also a contributing factor in Fin Rot.
The disease may also occur when the fish become stressed by something in the environment. The most common causes of Fin Rot are poor water quality. Overcrowding the tank, improperly low water temperature, feeding outdated food or overfeeding, and moving or handling the fish can also cause stress leading to Fin Rot. Decorations that snag or tear fins such as sharp plastic plants or agressive and nippy tank mates may leave wounds that bacteria can get into causing fin rot.
If left untreated, it will eventually kill the diseased fish and infect all the other fish in the tank as well. In its later stages it will start to eat away at the body.
In the early stages of Fin Rot the edges of the fins may discolour, appearing milky coloured on the edges. Often this change is so subtle that it goes unnoticed until fraying of the fins or tail begins. As the infection spreads, small pieces of the fins die and begin to fall off, leaving a ragged edge. Over time the fins become shorter and shorter as dead flesh continues to slough off the affected fins. The affected area may become red and inflamed; with bloody patches appearing as more tissue is eaten away. It is possible for secondary infections to develop along the raw edges of the fins.
Treatment:
Fin rot is generally caused by one of several gram negative bacteria. Aquarium salt treaments or one of several antibiotics are effective; however the root cause must be addressed as well to ensure the disease doesn’t return.
Dirty water is the largest factor in fin rot. Treatment should include water changes, and careful examination of the aquarium conditions. If there is food debris, vacuum the gravel and take care to avoid overfeeding in the future. Check the conditions of your aquarium and if you have a test kit check for ammonia, nitrite and nitrage levels. High PH levels and low water temperatures, particularly in fish with long flowing fins, can often trigger or contribute to fin rot.
Remember if you have an aquarium with other water critters such as shrimp, snail or scaleless fish always check if the treatments you want to use is safe for them.
Clean Water Method:
For cases of mild fin rot clean water is really the best cure. In unfiltered bowls do a 100% water change every day. In a filtered aquarium a 50% - 75% water change every day or two. This helps keep the area clean and remove the bad bacteria - like washing a wound daily. It makes a difference. After a few days you should see new growth. Continue the water changes for 7 to 10 days.
Salt Treatment:
***Never use table salt. you want uniodized salt such as sea salt, kosher salt or aquarium salt. If you are buying salt from a pet store make sure it is aquarium salt and not marine salt as they have different make-up.***
The most effective medicine that you can use to cure fin rot at a mild to moderate stage is clean water and Aquarium Salt. AQ Salt is sodium chloride, which heals open wounds and helps de-stress fish. Aquarium Salt is commonly found in many pet stores and is not expensive.
Like with any medicine, AQ salt should not be used for prolonged periods of time or in very high doses. Fourteen days is the maximum amount of time you should treat a fish with AQ Salt. Prolonged use can cause kidney and liver damage. Also, like any other medicine, the appropriate dose should be used. Do not use AQ salt as a "preventative" medicine at a low dose, as it will eventually become less effective and diseases will become resistant to it. For example, when 1tsp/gallon of water is needed, do not use .5tsp/gallon. Its like taking a half an aspirin when you need three, it doesn't do anything!
It is important to note that you only want to replace the salt you take out. If you do a 100% water change then 100% of the salt needs to be replaced. However if your fish is in a filtered tank and you're only taking out half the water - say 2.5g out of a 5g aquarium then you do not want to put 5 teaspoons of salt back in. You would only want to put 2.5 teaspoons (and not the whole 5 teaspoons) back in.
Adding the Salt:
Step One: Take a clean cup of some sort to mix clean water and salt in. You're mixing the salt before hand because when not dissolved, it burns!
Step Two: Add in 1 teaspoon per gallon of Aquarium Salt into this cup and allow it to dissolve fully. Stir it around to mix faster. So, if you have 1/2 gallon of water, .5tsp, 1 gallon of water, use 1 tsp of salt, 2 gallons, 2 tsp of salt, and so on. This is why you use a smaller container, its easier! If the fin rot is a bit more advanced - up this dose to no more than 1.5 tsp salt/gallon of water. Pre-mix it in the water like above.
Step Three: Add the salt/water mixture back into the QT tank gently so it wont knock around your fish.
Step Four: The Water change. When changing the water (and this is recommended every 1 - 2 days) only replace the amount of salt you take out. Treatment tends to last somewhere between 7 to 10 days and even up to 14 days for more stuborn cases.
In unfiltered bowl:
after one day, do a full, 100% water change in your QT tank. This is important because it keeps bacteria growth down, provides a clean environment for the fish, and makes re-dosing the salt easier. After a 100% water change (100%!!!), re-dose the 1tsp/gallon of AQ salt. Acclimate your fish properly and gently each time you do. As salt doesn't remove chlorine it's a good idea to add in your dechlorinator as normal.
I would suggest 100% water changes of every 1 to 2 days and for an unfiltered bowl. In a filtered tank I would suggest no less then 50% water changed, twice a week - and even better every 2 to 3 days.. Healing up a betta from fin rot is much like keeping one of our wounds clean. You don't want to leave the dirty bandage on for a week without changing it.
In a filtered aquarium:
In a filtered aquarium (especially in smaller ones) it's recommended to do a 50% - 75% water change every day or two. Only replace the amount of salt you take out. This means that if you take out 1 gallon then only replace 1 teaspoon of salt. If you take out 2.5 gallons, only put 2.5 teaspoons of salt back the aquarium and so on.
Once your fish has received a 7-10 day treatment with 1-1.5tsp/gallon of Aquarium salt with 100% water changes every 1 to 2 days, it should be right as rain. It may take a little bit to see fin re-growth, but it will be worth the wait when it comes. Re-growth appears clear at the ends and will usually regain color. Usually tiny hints of fin regrowth start to happen by day 3 or 4. If not then try increasing the salt by half a teaspoon and give it a little more time.
DO NOT COMPOUND THE SALT DOSES EACH DAY! Do NOT add 1 tsp one day, 1 tsp the next, etc, while not changing the water. It will kill your fish!
In an aquarium where you do not want to take everything apart you can do 50% or more water changes every two or three days, only replacing the amount of salt you take out until the treatment course is finished. When the treatment is complete remove the majority of salt by doing a couple of large water changes.
Antibiotic treatment - only recommended for really advanced fin rott:
The drugs Mardel's Myacryn, Furan-2, Chloramphenicol, Oxytetracycline, and Tetracycline, are all choices. Always treat according to manufacturer’s instructions, as the preparations can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. It is particularly important to continue treatment for the length of time recommended, as ending treatment too soon can result in a re-occurrence of the infection.
*A note on using antibiotics*
The use of antibiotics may be necessary as a last resort but there are risks involved. In an unfiltered bowl using the antibiotics as recommended will significantly lower the levels of oxygen in the water - use of an aerator is highly recommended. Antibiotics will also affect the benificial bacteria in your tank so you will have to start your bacterial colonies again (you will need to recycle your tank). Antibiotics will also kill off the bacteria inside your fish making it possible for the betta (or any other fish) to be suceptable to secondary infection after the fact. Most antibiotics for fish act as an antibacteria agent targeting the gram negative and/or gram positive strains of bacteria.
Keep fin rot at bay - Prevention is your best Friend:
Once you've treated the fish for fin rot, it's important to keep it at bay for the future. Ensure that the aquarium is properly set up and that the water is kept clean.
Check that the filter is running properly and clean the pump and filter regularly.
Perform regular tank maintenance.
Maintain a stable water temperature and good water quality.
Feed your fish a nutritious diet in the correct amounts for the fish species. (overfeeding is one of the biggest causes of poor water quality)
Avoid overcrowding or adding aggressors to the tank.
Warm the water up if it's too cold.
Keep a regular watch on any signs of fin rot. The earlier you catch it, the better for the fish.
(Google pictures used)
Sources:
bettasplendid.weebly.com/fin-rot-101.html
freshaquarium.about.com/cs/disease/p/finrot.htm
www.wikihow.com/Treat-Fin-Rot
Causes:
- Poor water conditions; these include unclean water (especially high ammonia and nitrite levels - testing the water is recommended), extreme pH amounts, and incorrect/inconsistent temperature, including cold water.
- Injury or another disease stressing the fish.
- Common disease causes of fin degeneration include columnaris, fish tuberculosis (very rare), and lymphocystis.
- Bacterial or parasite infection weaken the fish and leave it open to fin rot.
- Incorrect diet; additionally, offering fresh food in large portions.
Although it is caused by several types of bacteria and often occurs concurrently with other diseases, the root cause of Fin Rot is generally environmental in nature.
Fish stress is also a contributing factor in Fin Rot.
The disease may also occur when the fish become stressed by something in the environment. The most common causes of Fin Rot are poor water quality. Overcrowding the tank, improperly low water temperature, feeding outdated food or overfeeding, and moving or handling the fish can also cause stress leading to Fin Rot. Decorations that snag or tear fins such as sharp plastic plants or agressive and nippy tank mates may leave wounds that bacteria can get into causing fin rot.
If left untreated, it will eventually kill the diseased fish and infect all the other fish in the tank as well. In its later stages it will start to eat away at the body.
Symptoms:
- Frayed or ragged fin edges (fin rot is eating away at the fins)
- Fin edges turn white
- May have what looks like white fuzz on fin edges.
- May have Black or brown fin edges
- Bases of fins inflamed
- Entire fin may rot away
- If left untreated it will start to eat away at the body
In the early stages of Fin Rot the edges of the fins may discolour, appearing milky coloured on the edges. Often this change is so subtle that it goes unnoticed until fraying of the fins or tail begins. As the infection spreads, small pieces of the fins die and begin to fall off, leaving a ragged edge. Over time the fins become shorter and shorter as dead flesh continues to slough off the affected fins. The affected area may become red and inflamed; with bloody patches appearing as more tissue is eaten away. It is possible for secondary infections to develop along the raw edges of the fins.
Treatment:
- First - Correct root cause such as excess food build up or unclean water.
- Change the water and clean the bowl or aquarium.
- Clean the gravel well and suck up all detritus.Water changes - prevention is your best friend. Clean waters will become a kind of mantra.
- Check the temperature. A betta is best suited to temperatures between 76F - 82F and their immune system is peak at 80F.
- Check that overcrowding isn't an issue in the tank or incompatibility of fish.
- Aggression in some fish might be causing them to nip at the sick fish. Or, the sick fish may be suffering from stress if they feel overcrowded.
- Treat with aquarium salt.
- Treat with antibiotics if necessary.
Fin rot is generally caused by one of several gram negative bacteria. Aquarium salt treaments or one of several antibiotics are effective; however the root cause must be addressed as well to ensure the disease doesn’t return.
Dirty water is the largest factor in fin rot. Treatment should include water changes, and careful examination of the aquarium conditions. If there is food debris, vacuum the gravel and take care to avoid overfeeding in the future. Check the conditions of your aquarium and if you have a test kit check for ammonia, nitrite and nitrage levels. High PH levels and low water temperatures, particularly in fish with long flowing fins, can often trigger or contribute to fin rot.
Remember if you have an aquarium with other water critters such as shrimp, snail or scaleless fish always check if the treatments you want to use is safe for them.
Clean Water Method:
For cases of mild fin rot clean water is really the best cure. In unfiltered bowls do a 100% water change every day. In a filtered aquarium a 50% - 75% water change every day or two. This helps keep the area clean and remove the bad bacteria - like washing a wound daily. It makes a difference. After a few days you should see new growth. Continue the water changes for 7 to 10 days.
Salt Treatment:
***Never use table salt. you want uniodized salt such as sea salt, kosher salt or aquarium salt. If you are buying salt from a pet store make sure it is aquarium salt and not marine salt as they have different make-up.***
The most effective medicine that you can use to cure fin rot at a mild to moderate stage is clean water and Aquarium Salt. AQ Salt is sodium chloride, which heals open wounds and helps de-stress fish. Aquarium Salt is commonly found in many pet stores and is not expensive.
Like with any medicine, AQ salt should not be used for prolonged periods of time or in very high doses. Fourteen days is the maximum amount of time you should treat a fish with AQ Salt. Prolonged use can cause kidney and liver damage. Also, like any other medicine, the appropriate dose should be used. Do not use AQ salt as a "preventative" medicine at a low dose, as it will eventually become less effective and diseases will become resistant to it. For example, when 1tsp/gallon of water is needed, do not use .5tsp/gallon. Its like taking a half an aspirin when you need three, it doesn't do anything!
It is important to note that you only want to replace the salt you take out. If you do a 100% water change then 100% of the salt needs to be replaced. However if your fish is in a filtered tank and you're only taking out half the water - say 2.5g out of a 5g aquarium then you do not want to put 5 teaspoons of salt back in. You would only want to put 2.5 teaspoons (and not the whole 5 teaspoons) back in.
Adding the Salt:
Step One: Take a clean cup of some sort to mix clean water and salt in. You're mixing the salt before hand because when not dissolved, it burns!
Step Two: Add in 1 teaspoon per gallon of Aquarium Salt into this cup and allow it to dissolve fully. Stir it around to mix faster. So, if you have 1/2 gallon of water, .5tsp, 1 gallon of water, use 1 tsp of salt, 2 gallons, 2 tsp of salt, and so on. This is why you use a smaller container, its easier! If the fin rot is a bit more advanced - up this dose to no more than 1.5 tsp salt/gallon of water. Pre-mix it in the water like above.
Step Three: Add the salt/water mixture back into the QT tank gently so it wont knock around your fish.
Step Four: The Water change. When changing the water (and this is recommended every 1 - 2 days) only replace the amount of salt you take out. Treatment tends to last somewhere between 7 to 10 days and even up to 14 days for more stuborn cases.
In unfiltered bowl:
after one day, do a full, 100% water change in your QT tank. This is important because it keeps bacteria growth down, provides a clean environment for the fish, and makes re-dosing the salt easier. After a 100% water change (100%!!!), re-dose the 1tsp/gallon of AQ salt. Acclimate your fish properly and gently each time you do. As salt doesn't remove chlorine it's a good idea to add in your dechlorinator as normal.
I would suggest 100% water changes of every 1 to 2 days and for an unfiltered bowl. In a filtered tank I would suggest no less then 50% water changed, twice a week - and even better every 2 to 3 days.. Healing up a betta from fin rot is much like keeping one of our wounds clean. You don't want to leave the dirty bandage on for a week without changing it.
In a filtered aquarium:
In a filtered aquarium (especially in smaller ones) it's recommended to do a 50% - 75% water change every day or two. Only replace the amount of salt you take out. This means that if you take out 1 gallon then only replace 1 teaspoon of salt. If you take out 2.5 gallons, only put 2.5 teaspoons of salt back the aquarium and so on.
Once your fish has received a 7-10 day treatment with 1-1.5tsp/gallon of Aquarium salt with 100% water changes every 1 to 2 days, it should be right as rain. It may take a little bit to see fin re-growth, but it will be worth the wait when it comes. Re-growth appears clear at the ends and will usually regain color. Usually tiny hints of fin regrowth start to happen by day 3 or 4. If not then try increasing the salt by half a teaspoon and give it a little more time.
DO NOT COMPOUND THE SALT DOSES EACH DAY! Do NOT add 1 tsp one day, 1 tsp the next, etc, while not changing the water. It will kill your fish!
In an aquarium where you do not want to take everything apart you can do 50% or more water changes every two or three days, only replacing the amount of salt you take out until the treatment course is finished. When the treatment is complete remove the majority of salt by doing a couple of large water changes.
Antibiotic treatment - only recommended for really advanced fin rott:
The drugs Mardel's Myacryn, Furan-2, Chloramphenicol, Oxytetracycline, and Tetracycline, are all choices. Always treat according to manufacturer’s instructions, as the preparations can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. It is particularly important to continue treatment for the length of time recommended, as ending treatment too soon can result in a re-occurrence of the infection.
*A note on using antibiotics*
The use of antibiotics may be necessary as a last resort but there are risks involved. In an unfiltered bowl using the antibiotics as recommended will significantly lower the levels of oxygen in the water - use of an aerator is highly recommended. Antibiotics will also affect the benificial bacteria in your tank so you will have to start your bacterial colonies again (you will need to recycle your tank). Antibiotics will also kill off the bacteria inside your fish making it possible for the betta (or any other fish) to be suceptable to secondary infection after the fact. Most antibiotics for fish act as an antibacteria agent targeting the gram negative and/or gram positive strains of bacteria.
Keep fin rot at bay - Prevention is your best Friend:
Once you've treated the fish for fin rot, it's important to keep it at bay for the future. Ensure that the aquarium is properly set up and that the water is kept clean.
Check that the filter is running properly and clean the pump and filter regularly.
Perform regular tank maintenance.
Maintain a stable water temperature and good water quality.
Feed your fish a nutritious diet in the correct amounts for the fish species. (overfeeding is one of the biggest causes of poor water quality)
Avoid overcrowding or adding aggressors to the tank.
Warm the water up if it's too cold.
Keep a regular watch on any signs of fin rot. The earlier you catch it, the better for the fish.
(Google pictures used)
Sources:
bettasplendid.weebly.com/fin-rot-101.html
freshaquarium.about.com/cs/disease/p/finrot.htm
www.wikihow.com/Treat-Fin-Rot
