Post by jocie1976 on Apr 22, 2015 1:04:33 GMT -5
Ich (ick) is a common parasite which most aquarists eventually encounter. Even if you follow quarantine procedures you may at some point acquire an infected fish, which should quarantined and if need be treated before being introduced into your main aquarium. The good news is that if handled correctly, this disease can be easily and permanently eliminated.
Anyone that keeps fish for any period of time will eventually have fish that develop ich. Many hobbyists consider this disease to be just a common nuisance but the reality is that ich is probably responsible for more fish deaths than just about any other disease. There are several effective treatments for ich, but if they are not administered correctly, they can cause serious problems with your fish and tank inhabitants. This will help explain the source and cause of ich as well as giving treatment options and prevention strategies.
What Is Ich?
The scientific name for this nuisance is Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, or “ich/ick” for short. It is the largest known ciliated protozoan found on fishes. It appears on the body and fins as tiny white dots resembling grains of salt; hence the other nickname, “white spot disease.” These white spots may join together to form white patches. Other signs of infestation can include excessive flashing (rubbing against the substrate or decorations), labored breathing, clamped fins, loss of appetite, lethargic and/or reclusive behavior, and hovering near filter returns. Keep in mind, however, that all of these symptoms are common with fish in distress and do not point directly to Ich. As a matter of fact, flashing often occurs after routine water changes due simply to a fluctuation in general hardness.
The life Cycle Of Ich:
Ich has three life stages, which are important to understand for proper diagnosis and treatment.
1. When the parasite is visible to the naked eye, it is a nearly fully developed trophont which has burrowed under the fish’s mucus coating where it is protected from chemicals (medication). It has likely been feeding on the body fluid of the fish for several days and has swelled to many times its original size. At common aquarium temperatures of 75 to 80ºF this feeding stage lasts only a few days, at which point the fully developed cyst drops off the fish as a tomont.
2. The tomont may swim for several hours before settling on and attaching to the substrate, a plant, or some other surface. During that time it is susceptible to chemicals and medication will be effective. Once attached, it begins its reproductive stage. It encysts and begins rapidly dividing. At this point, it is again immune to chemicals. Within a few days, hundreds of new organisms burst from the cyst, sprout cilia and start swimming in search of a host.
3. These are now referred to as thermonts or swarmers, and they must find a host within a few days or they will die. (For this reason, we know that even an aquarium heavily infested with Ich would be “clean” and safe for new fish after only a week or two without fish in the tank.) Medication is effective at this stage. Once the thermont attaches to a host and burrows in, it is referred to as a trophont and the cycle begins again. Unfortunately, with each cycle the number of organisms in the tank increases dramatically. Remember that the higher the temperature, the faster the ich develops and grows so if you have an empty tank then turning up the heat will speed up the time there is ich in the tank.
Left untreated, Ich is almost certainly fatal. Infected fish are weakened by the ever growing number of parasites feeding on them. Secondary bacteria and fungi attack more easily. Trophonts on the gills eventually restrict oxygen flow and respiration is hindered. The ailing fish will ultimately succumb either to the infestation itself or a secondary condition.
Treating Ich:
If one chooses to use salt and/or heat I suggest a combination of 2 teaspoons of salt per gallon and heat of at least 90F for a minimum duration of 10 days or three days after the last sign of ich has disappeared. I have used this to treat ich and find that the combination is just fine with bettas.
***While ich doesn't affect invertebrates such as shrimp and snails it can hitch a ride on them so if you have an outbreak they will need to be quarantined for a suggested 30 days or so if you don't want to risk loosing them to many of the treatments that are toxic to them.***
Heat Treatment:
There are two schools of thought regarding raising the temperature of the water to treat ich.
1. The first approach is used simply to speed up the life cycle of the parasite, since whatever medication you choose will only be effective on the free-swimming tomonts and thermonts. It is understood that at temps above 75ºF, for example, an entire life cycle can be complete in less than 4 days. (In contrast, it can take more than 5 weeks at temps below 45ºF, such as you might find in an outdoor pond). Slowly raising the temperature a few degrees to approximately 80 - 82ºF will do the trick, and you can treat accordingly with salt or a medication (see below). Always maintain good surface agitation, especially with a higher temperature. However as most bettas are already in this temperature range no change is needed. This method can be combined with salt or medication treatment.
2. The second approach is to actually destroy the organism with heat, and can be combined with the salt treatment below, but not with meds – the combination of salt and medications such as copper should never be combined and can kill your fish. Generally most strains of ich cannot reproduce at temperatures above 85ºF and that most ich is killed by temperatures of 90 - 92ºF. To use this treatment approach slowly (no more than 1 or 2 degrees per hour) raise the temperature to 86ºF or desired temperature, while maintaining strong continuous surface agitation to oxygenate the water. This is extremely important because water holds less O2 at higher temperatures. (This is why meds should not be used in conjunction with high temp – most Ich treatment products also reduce oxygen levels. Less available oxygen, combined with the respiration difficulties an infected fish is already faced with, could be fatal.) You can angle powerheads up toward the surface, or lower your water level to get a little extra splash from your filter return. As with any treatment, observe your fish closely for signs of stress (labored breathing, erratic behavior) and reduce the temperature slowly if necessary.
The adjusted temperature should be maintained for approximately 10 days, or a minimum of 3 days after all signs of the parasite have disappeared. Do not discontinue treatment when the spots go away. This is critical, because we know that they are visible only as a trophont on the body of the host, and not during the reproductive or free-swimming stage. We also know that trophonts on the gills are impossible to see.
One last note on raised temperature treatment: If you follow the directions here thoroughly and have a subsequent outbreak without having added new fish or plants, you may need to try a different approach. It is possible to encounter a resistant strain of ich, as there have been rare instances recorded where the organism survived at 92ºF!
Salt Treatment:
Salt is frequently recommended for treating a myriad of fish diseases, especially those involving external protozoa and fungi.
You want sodium chloride (NaCl) that is iodine free such as Aquarium salt (is the most widely used form because it does not contain the iodine or anti-caking agents that table salt does), canning salt , sea salt or kosher salt. Generally the dose is 2 - 3 teaspoons of salt per gallon added slowly over a period of about a quarter to teaspoon a gallon per hour. So if you were adding 1 teaspoon per gallon then it is recommended that it take 4 hours to add. Keep a close eye on your fish and perform an immediate water change if they show any additional signs of stress (beyond what the Ich is already causing). However bettas don't tend to react badly to salt as a short term treatment so there shouldn't be a problem.
The salt bath should be maintained for approximately 10 days, or for at least 3 days after any visible signs of Ich can be detected. Do not discontinue treatment when the spots go away. If you use a higher dosage of salt, watch the duration more closely.
***It is highly recommended that the higher heat method be used in conjunction with the salt treatment. Never Combine salt and medication – the combination is toxic.***
What Else Should I Do?
Water change every couple of days can be performed during the salt treatment and is recommended as it can help remove a lot of the free floating ich (but is not necessary unless nitrates are creeping up to an undesirable level). Be sure to salt the replacement water accordingly to maintain salinity. Remember to match the temperature of the water to the water in the tank – especially if you are using heat as part of the treatment. Gravel vacuuming is also helpful to remove as many tomonts as possible before they can release offspring. Again, this is not absolutely necessary since the salt should destroy the free-swimming thermonts upon their release.
***A note about salt: Salt can harm or kill invertebrates such as shrimp or snails and scaleless fish such as many species of cat fish may be sensitive to it.***
Medical Treatments:
There are many products available for treating ich. Whatever you choose, be sure to:
1. Read the label thoroughly for dosage information, special instructions, and warnings related to your own health and that of your plants, invertebrates, and scaleless or sensitive species of fish.
2. Perform a water change and vacuum the gravel before medicating. Most meds are less effective with excessive dissolved organics (nitrates) present and you’re often instructed not to change any water during treatment.
3. Remove the carbon from your filter.
4. Maintain good surface agitation and water movement. This is always important, but it is absolutely critical when raising your water temperature and administering meds – both of which reduce the oxygen content of the water and can kill your fish if care is not taken. For that reason, it is not advisable to raise the temperature more than 2 degrees above normal when using any of the following Ich treatment products.
5. Continue treatment for the duration advised. Because of the lifecycle of the parasite it is critical that you continue treatment for a minimum of 3 days after any visible signs of Ich can be detected. Do not discontinue treatment when the spots go away. If the instructions advise you to retreat, do so.
6. Disregard grandiose claims. Some products claim to “cure ick within 24 hours.” Based on what we know about the lifecycle of this parasite, that is simply not possible.
Copper-based medications are commonly recommended for treating ich. Some brand names include CopperSafe by Mardel, General Cure by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Seachem Cupramine, and Aquari-Sol. Look for the active ingredient “copper sulfate” or “soluble copper salts.” Copper does not stain and is highly recommended by many aquarists. It does have drawbacks, however. It causes oxygen concentration to drop, it is toxic to snails and invertebrates, it may not be tolerated well by scaleless fish and plants, and like any chemical, it can certainly be toxic to your fish especially if dosed incorrectly. Apparently the toxicity increases as total alkalinity (KH) decreases. This would suggest that copper-based meds may be better suited for use with African rift lake cichlids than with softwater fish from low pH/KH conditions. But beware; if you should have a drop in your pH while using copper your fish could perish.
***In case you missed it, copper meds will kill invertebrates. Plus, they can be difficult to remove from a tank. Copper can be absorbed by the silicone and gravel and other porous stuff in a tank like driftwood, and it will continue to leach back out over time, even after you've changed all the water and are running carbon. So, this is best used in a quarantine tank. Copper should also be removed after treatment by replacing the carbon in your filter with new carbon (never the old carbon) or lots of water changes as over a period of time copper will build up in your fish and become toxic***
Malachite Green is an ominous substance that’s highly effective against Ich and fungi. It can be purchased separately under its chemical name, or found as the active ingredient in products such as Maracide by Mardel, Ich Cure by Aquatrol, Super Ich Plus by Aquatronics, and Fungus Plus® by Aquatronics. It is carcinogenic and dangerous to handle or breathe (especially for pregnant women). There are rumors circulating that it could be banned for aquarium use by the FDA in the future. It cannot be used on food fish and is toxic to eggs, fry, some varieties of tetras, catfish, elephant noses, loaches and small marine fish. It also may damage your biological filter and will likely stain aquarium decorations and silicone sealant. Malachite Green is light sensitive, and you will be advised to keep your aquarium lights off during treatment to prevent the chemical from oxidizing.
Methylene Blue is used primarily for superficial fungal or bacterial infections, and nitrite or cyanide poisoning. It is also considered to be an alternative to Malachite Green for the treatment of fungus and external protozoa in sensitive fish, eggs and fry. It is available under its chemical name or in products such as Methyblu by Aquatronics. It too cannot be used on food fish, and is a powerful dye that may stain tank decorations and silicone sealant. Damage to plants and biological filter may also occur.
Acriflavine is a chemical found in some Ich medications such asIck Clear® by Jungle, and Acriflavin Plus® by Aquatronics. It is considered to be highly effective against protozoan parasites, as well as external bacterial infections and fungus which sometimes occur as a secondary condition. It may damage your biological filter, harm live plants, cause skin irritation, and stain your hands and tank decorations; gloves are recommended. I do not know how well it is tolerated by invertebrates, sensitive species, scaleless fish and fry, but I do know that it cannot be used on food fish – which is sometimes a clue as to the toxicity of the substance. As always, read warning labels thoroughly.
The above mentioned medications are several of the treatments available but certainly not all.
How Do I Prevent It?
It is a commonly held belief that the Ichthyophthirius organism is always present in your aquarium and needs only the right opportunity, such as stress resulting in a weakened immune function, to attack your fish. Surprisingly, I found no scientific data to support that claim. Credible sources state that there is no long-term dormant stage this parasite can exist in. While its lifecycle is longer at low temperatures (like that of an outdoor pond in a cooler climate), at average home aquarium temperatures this parasite would likely complete a lifecycle in less than a week. Considering that a single organism produces hundreds (if not thousands) of offspring, the logical question is “where would they all go?” Dr. Peter Burgess, writing for Practical Fishkeeping magazine (who also co-authored the book entitled 'A to Z of Tropical Fish Diseases and Health Problems' refers to the dormant concept as “rubbish.
The proliferation of this myth could be due to the fact that it is possible for a strong, healthy fish to resist severe infestations, especially if it was infected previously and developed some resistance. While the organisms attach easily to the gills of most fish (where they cannot be seen), the body may be sufficiently protected by a tougher mucus coating. Such a fish could serve as an asymptomatic carrier; potentially hosting many life cycles without showing any visible signs. When introduced to a new tank it brings the parasite with it. Scaleless fish such as loaches and catfish often show symptoms first, but most likely every fish in the tank will eventually be infected; if not visibly on the body, on the gills at the very least.
Preventing Ich:
It stands to reason that a stressed fish with a weakened immune function is an easy host, but only if the parasite is present in the tank to begin with. That brings us back to how to prevent it, now that we know it is not lurking in every aquarium waiting to strike. Here are few guidelines:
Never buy fish from a tank where any fish show signs of disease and never buy fish from a tank that contains a dead or a diseased fish.
Quarantine new fish for 14-21 days and observe for any signs of illness. Do not take “low dosage” preventative measures against quarantined fish (such as half the recommended medication dosage) as this would only spare the organisms most resistant to medication. If you’re going to treat, do a full treatment just as you would if you were certain the fish was infected.
If you do not quarantine (not everyone has an extra tank set up), after floating the bag and adding small amounts of your tank water to acclimate the new fish, gently empty the bag into a net (working over a bucket) and then place the netted fish in the aquarium. Never add the water from the travel bag to your aquarium as it could contain Ich thermonts or other dangerous organisms. Still, your fish could have trophonts on the gills or on the body which have not swelled enough yet to be visible. You’re gambling with the health of all your fish if you don’t quarantine.
If you keep multiple tanks, use separate nets for each tank and/or let your net dry completely between uses. Ich cannot survive being dried out.
Buy plants only from tanks without fish, or quarantine plants for 5-7 days without fish, or bathe plants in potium permanganate or bleach before putting them in the main tank (unfortunately this can be hard on the plants).
If your tank does become infected, be accurate and thorough with treatment to ensure total eradication. It only takes a single surviving trophont to reproduce and start the whole ugly process again.
Remove to a quarantine tank and treat any fish that begins to show the first signs of ich.
Maintain excellent water quality and do regular water changes.
Sources:
www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php
www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=16+2160&aid=2421
(Google pictures used)
Anyone that keeps fish for any period of time will eventually have fish that develop ich. Many hobbyists consider this disease to be just a common nuisance but the reality is that ich is probably responsible for more fish deaths than just about any other disease. There are several effective treatments for ich, but if they are not administered correctly, they can cause serious problems with your fish and tank inhabitants. This will help explain the source and cause of ich as well as giving treatment options and prevention strategies.
What Is Ich?
The scientific name for this nuisance is Ichthyophthirius multifiliis, or “ich/ick” for short. It is the largest known ciliated protozoan found on fishes. It appears on the body and fins as tiny white dots resembling grains of salt; hence the other nickname, “white spot disease.” These white spots may join together to form white patches. Other signs of infestation can include excessive flashing (rubbing against the substrate or decorations), labored breathing, clamped fins, loss of appetite, lethargic and/or reclusive behavior, and hovering near filter returns. Keep in mind, however, that all of these symptoms are common with fish in distress and do not point directly to Ich. As a matter of fact, flashing often occurs after routine water changes due simply to a fluctuation in general hardness.
The life Cycle Of Ich:
Ich has three life stages, which are important to understand for proper diagnosis and treatment.
1. When the parasite is visible to the naked eye, it is a nearly fully developed trophont which has burrowed under the fish’s mucus coating where it is protected from chemicals (medication). It has likely been feeding on the body fluid of the fish for several days and has swelled to many times its original size. At common aquarium temperatures of 75 to 80ºF this feeding stage lasts only a few days, at which point the fully developed cyst drops off the fish as a tomont.
2. The tomont may swim for several hours before settling on and attaching to the substrate, a plant, or some other surface. During that time it is susceptible to chemicals and medication will be effective. Once attached, it begins its reproductive stage. It encysts and begins rapidly dividing. At this point, it is again immune to chemicals. Within a few days, hundreds of new organisms burst from the cyst, sprout cilia and start swimming in search of a host.
3. These are now referred to as thermonts or swarmers, and they must find a host within a few days or they will die. (For this reason, we know that even an aquarium heavily infested with Ich would be “clean” and safe for new fish after only a week or two without fish in the tank.) Medication is effective at this stage. Once the thermont attaches to a host and burrows in, it is referred to as a trophont and the cycle begins again. Unfortunately, with each cycle the number of organisms in the tank increases dramatically. Remember that the higher the temperature, the faster the ich develops and grows so if you have an empty tank then turning up the heat will speed up the time there is ich in the tank.
Left untreated, Ich is almost certainly fatal. Infected fish are weakened by the ever growing number of parasites feeding on them. Secondary bacteria and fungi attack more easily. Trophonts on the gills eventually restrict oxygen flow and respiration is hindered. The ailing fish will ultimately succumb either to the infestation itself or a secondary condition.
Treating Ich:
If one chooses to use salt and/or heat I suggest a combination of 2 teaspoons of salt per gallon and heat of at least 90F for a minimum duration of 10 days or three days after the last sign of ich has disappeared. I have used this to treat ich and find that the combination is just fine with bettas.
***While ich doesn't affect invertebrates such as shrimp and snails it can hitch a ride on them so if you have an outbreak they will need to be quarantined for a suggested 30 days or so if you don't want to risk loosing them to many of the treatments that are toxic to them.***
Heat Treatment:
There are two schools of thought regarding raising the temperature of the water to treat ich.
1. The first approach is used simply to speed up the life cycle of the parasite, since whatever medication you choose will only be effective on the free-swimming tomonts and thermonts. It is understood that at temps above 75ºF, for example, an entire life cycle can be complete in less than 4 days. (In contrast, it can take more than 5 weeks at temps below 45ºF, such as you might find in an outdoor pond). Slowly raising the temperature a few degrees to approximately 80 - 82ºF will do the trick, and you can treat accordingly with salt or a medication (see below). Always maintain good surface agitation, especially with a higher temperature. However as most bettas are already in this temperature range no change is needed. This method can be combined with salt or medication treatment.
2. The second approach is to actually destroy the organism with heat, and can be combined with the salt treatment below, but not with meds – the combination of salt and medications such as copper should never be combined and can kill your fish. Generally most strains of ich cannot reproduce at temperatures above 85ºF and that most ich is killed by temperatures of 90 - 92ºF. To use this treatment approach slowly (no more than 1 or 2 degrees per hour) raise the temperature to 86ºF or desired temperature, while maintaining strong continuous surface agitation to oxygenate the water. This is extremely important because water holds less O2 at higher temperatures. (This is why meds should not be used in conjunction with high temp – most Ich treatment products also reduce oxygen levels. Less available oxygen, combined with the respiration difficulties an infected fish is already faced with, could be fatal.) You can angle powerheads up toward the surface, or lower your water level to get a little extra splash from your filter return. As with any treatment, observe your fish closely for signs of stress (labored breathing, erratic behavior) and reduce the temperature slowly if necessary.
The adjusted temperature should be maintained for approximately 10 days, or a minimum of 3 days after all signs of the parasite have disappeared. Do not discontinue treatment when the spots go away. This is critical, because we know that they are visible only as a trophont on the body of the host, and not during the reproductive or free-swimming stage. We also know that trophonts on the gills are impossible to see.
One last note on raised temperature treatment: If you follow the directions here thoroughly and have a subsequent outbreak without having added new fish or plants, you may need to try a different approach. It is possible to encounter a resistant strain of ich, as there have been rare instances recorded where the organism survived at 92ºF!
Salt Treatment:
Salt is frequently recommended for treating a myriad of fish diseases, especially those involving external protozoa and fungi.
You want sodium chloride (NaCl) that is iodine free such as Aquarium salt (is the most widely used form because it does not contain the iodine or anti-caking agents that table salt does), canning salt , sea salt or kosher salt. Generally the dose is 2 - 3 teaspoons of salt per gallon added slowly over a period of about a quarter to teaspoon a gallon per hour. So if you were adding 1 teaspoon per gallon then it is recommended that it take 4 hours to add. Keep a close eye on your fish and perform an immediate water change if they show any additional signs of stress (beyond what the Ich is already causing). However bettas don't tend to react badly to salt as a short term treatment so there shouldn't be a problem.
The salt bath should be maintained for approximately 10 days, or for at least 3 days after any visible signs of Ich can be detected. Do not discontinue treatment when the spots go away. If you use a higher dosage of salt, watch the duration more closely.
***It is highly recommended that the higher heat method be used in conjunction with the salt treatment. Never Combine salt and medication – the combination is toxic.***
What Else Should I Do?
Water change every couple of days can be performed during the salt treatment and is recommended as it can help remove a lot of the free floating ich (but is not necessary unless nitrates are creeping up to an undesirable level). Be sure to salt the replacement water accordingly to maintain salinity. Remember to match the temperature of the water to the water in the tank – especially if you are using heat as part of the treatment. Gravel vacuuming is also helpful to remove as many tomonts as possible before they can release offspring. Again, this is not absolutely necessary since the salt should destroy the free-swimming thermonts upon their release.
***A note about salt: Salt can harm or kill invertebrates such as shrimp or snails and scaleless fish such as many species of cat fish may be sensitive to it.***
Medical Treatments:
There are many products available for treating ich. Whatever you choose, be sure to:
1. Read the label thoroughly for dosage information, special instructions, and warnings related to your own health and that of your plants, invertebrates, and scaleless or sensitive species of fish.
2. Perform a water change and vacuum the gravel before medicating. Most meds are less effective with excessive dissolved organics (nitrates) present and you’re often instructed not to change any water during treatment.
3. Remove the carbon from your filter.
4. Maintain good surface agitation and water movement. This is always important, but it is absolutely critical when raising your water temperature and administering meds – both of which reduce the oxygen content of the water and can kill your fish if care is not taken. For that reason, it is not advisable to raise the temperature more than 2 degrees above normal when using any of the following Ich treatment products.
5. Continue treatment for the duration advised. Because of the lifecycle of the parasite it is critical that you continue treatment for a minimum of 3 days after any visible signs of Ich can be detected. Do not discontinue treatment when the spots go away. If the instructions advise you to retreat, do so.
6. Disregard grandiose claims. Some products claim to “cure ick within 24 hours.” Based on what we know about the lifecycle of this parasite, that is simply not possible.
Copper-based medications are commonly recommended for treating ich. Some brand names include CopperSafe by Mardel, General Cure by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, Seachem Cupramine, and Aquari-Sol. Look for the active ingredient “copper sulfate” or “soluble copper salts.” Copper does not stain and is highly recommended by many aquarists. It does have drawbacks, however. It causes oxygen concentration to drop, it is toxic to snails and invertebrates, it may not be tolerated well by scaleless fish and plants, and like any chemical, it can certainly be toxic to your fish especially if dosed incorrectly. Apparently the toxicity increases as total alkalinity (KH) decreases. This would suggest that copper-based meds may be better suited for use with African rift lake cichlids than with softwater fish from low pH/KH conditions. But beware; if you should have a drop in your pH while using copper your fish could perish.
***In case you missed it, copper meds will kill invertebrates. Plus, they can be difficult to remove from a tank. Copper can be absorbed by the silicone and gravel and other porous stuff in a tank like driftwood, and it will continue to leach back out over time, even after you've changed all the water and are running carbon. So, this is best used in a quarantine tank. Copper should also be removed after treatment by replacing the carbon in your filter with new carbon (never the old carbon) or lots of water changes as over a period of time copper will build up in your fish and become toxic***
Malachite Green is an ominous substance that’s highly effective against Ich and fungi. It can be purchased separately under its chemical name, or found as the active ingredient in products such as Maracide by Mardel, Ich Cure by Aquatrol, Super Ich Plus by Aquatronics, and Fungus Plus® by Aquatronics. It is carcinogenic and dangerous to handle or breathe (especially for pregnant women). There are rumors circulating that it could be banned for aquarium use by the FDA in the future. It cannot be used on food fish and is toxic to eggs, fry, some varieties of tetras, catfish, elephant noses, loaches and small marine fish. It also may damage your biological filter and will likely stain aquarium decorations and silicone sealant. Malachite Green is light sensitive, and you will be advised to keep your aquarium lights off during treatment to prevent the chemical from oxidizing.
Methylene Blue is used primarily for superficial fungal or bacterial infections, and nitrite or cyanide poisoning. It is also considered to be an alternative to Malachite Green for the treatment of fungus and external protozoa in sensitive fish, eggs and fry. It is available under its chemical name or in products such as Methyblu by Aquatronics. It too cannot be used on food fish, and is a powerful dye that may stain tank decorations and silicone sealant. Damage to plants and biological filter may also occur.
Acriflavine is a chemical found in some Ich medications such asIck Clear® by Jungle, and Acriflavin Plus® by Aquatronics. It is considered to be highly effective against protozoan parasites, as well as external bacterial infections and fungus which sometimes occur as a secondary condition. It may damage your biological filter, harm live plants, cause skin irritation, and stain your hands and tank decorations; gloves are recommended. I do not know how well it is tolerated by invertebrates, sensitive species, scaleless fish and fry, but I do know that it cannot be used on food fish – which is sometimes a clue as to the toxicity of the substance. As always, read warning labels thoroughly.
The above mentioned medications are several of the treatments available but certainly not all.
How Do I Prevent It?
It is a commonly held belief that the Ichthyophthirius organism is always present in your aquarium and needs only the right opportunity, such as stress resulting in a weakened immune function, to attack your fish. Surprisingly, I found no scientific data to support that claim. Credible sources state that there is no long-term dormant stage this parasite can exist in. While its lifecycle is longer at low temperatures (like that of an outdoor pond in a cooler climate), at average home aquarium temperatures this parasite would likely complete a lifecycle in less than a week. Considering that a single organism produces hundreds (if not thousands) of offspring, the logical question is “where would they all go?” Dr. Peter Burgess, writing for Practical Fishkeeping magazine (who also co-authored the book entitled 'A to Z of Tropical Fish Diseases and Health Problems' refers to the dormant concept as “rubbish.
The proliferation of this myth could be due to the fact that it is possible for a strong, healthy fish to resist severe infestations, especially if it was infected previously and developed some resistance. While the organisms attach easily to the gills of most fish (where they cannot be seen), the body may be sufficiently protected by a tougher mucus coating. Such a fish could serve as an asymptomatic carrier; potentially hosting many life cycles without showing any visible signs. When introduced to a new tank it brings the parasite with it. Scaleless fish such as loaches and catfish often show symptoms first, but most likely every fish in the tank will eventually be infected; if not visibly on the body, on the gills at the very least.
Preventing Ich:
It stands to reason that a stressed fish with a weakened immune function is an easy host, but only if the parasite is present in the tank to begin with. That brings us back to how to prevent it, now that we know it is not lurking in every aquarium waiting to strike. Here are few guidelines:
Never buy fish from a tank where any fish show signs of disease and never buy fish from a tank that contains a dead or a diseased fish.
Quarantine new fish for 14-21 days and observe for any signs of illness. Do not take “low dosage” preventative measures against quarantined fish (such as half the recommended medication dosage) as this would only spare the organisms most resistant to medication. If you’re going to treat, do a full treatment just as you would if you were certain the fish was infected.
If you do not quarantine (not everyone has an extra tank set up), after floating the bag and adding small amounts of your tank water to acclimate the new fish, gently empty the bag into a net (working over a bucket) and then place the netted fish in the aquarium. Never add the water from the travel bag to your aquarium as it could contain Ich thermonts or other dangerous organisms. Still, your fish could have trophonts on the gills or on the body which have not swelled enough yet to be visible. You’re gambling with the health of all your fish if you don’t quarantine.
If you keep multiple tanks, use separate nets for each tank and/or let your net dry completely between uses. Ich cannot survive being dried out.
Buy plants only from tanks without fish, or quarantine plants for 5-7 days without fish, or bathe plants in potium permanganate or bleach before putting them in the main tank (unfortunately this can be hard on the plants).
If your tank does become infected, be accurate and thorough with treatment to ensure total eradication. It only takes a single surviving trophont to reproduce and start the whole ugly process again.
Remove to a quarantine tank and treat any fish that begins to show the first signs of ich.
Maintain excellent water quality and do regular water changes.
Sources:
www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/ich.php
www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=16+2160&aid=2421
(Google pictures used)
