Post by Suzanah on Apr 22, 2015 20:18:09 GMT -5
Bacteria are essential for life on the earth, and they exist everywhere; in only one milliliter of freshwater there are a million bacteria cells, invisible to the naked eye. The name bacteria is the plural of bacterium, which is the Latinized form of the Greek bakterion [bakteria] which means a staff or cane, so named because the first bacteria discovered were rod-shaped. They are single-celled prokaryote microorganisms; prokaryotes are organisms that lack a cell nucleus.
So this note is about some of the more talked about bacteria that lives in our tanks.
BIO-FILM:
What is it?
Bio-film (biofilm) is a thin film on the surface of aquarium water, caused by the build up of protein from organic waste material. It is the structure bacteria build to support themselves growing on the surface where they get access to oxygen and the material.
What does it look like?
It can be spotted by looking at the surface at an angle to a light source and you may see reflected an oil like rainbow effect. It can also be directly seen by breaking up the surface of the water with a finger or stick to make bubbles. If bubbles form and last for more than a few seconds then you've got a bio-film.
Is it dangerous?
In certain circumstances (high bioload) it can reduce the level of oxygen to the rest of the tank. It can also stop CO2 getting released from the water so CO2 levels rise and so may cause asphyxiation to the animals in the tank including the nitrifying bacteria in a filter.
Causes:
Removing it:
Ensure an adequate water flow at the surface or provide aeration to break up the water surface. It will soon dissipate. In the immediate instance a fishnet can be used to take the film off the surface of the water. Using a filter or air stone and air pump will disrupt the surface of the water and take care of the problem for you.
BACTERIAL BLOOMS:
this is a condition in which a sudden increase in the number of bacterial colonies occurs, specifically bacteria that are suspended in the water column. The bacteria grows so rapidly that collectively they become visible to the naked eye, causing the water to become cloudy or milky in appearance. Sometimes the blossom is so severe it is difficult to see the fish.
Regular partial water changes and good tank maintenance will usually prevent severe bacterial blooms. In new tanks, the bloom will dissipate as the nitrogen cycle becomes established and stabilizes.
Established tanks rarely have them, except when the balance is disturbed. In an established tank, a bacterial bloom is caused by something that upsets the biological balance by increasing the organic matter too quickly, such as overfeeding, excessive decaying plant and animal matter, excess waste from overcrowding, etc. Here, the heterotrophs quickly reproduce by feeding on this organic matter. This produces ammonia as a by-product, and the sudden surge in ammonia overtakes the nitrifying bacteria that need time to "catch up." Live plants again help here, as they can imilate and/or take up considerable quantities of ammonia faster. Note that the bacterial bloom causes the rise in ammonia, not the opposite as some may think.
Determine The Causes Of Cloudy Aquarium Water:
If cloudy aquarium water occurs a couple weeks after a tank is started, and after fish and food are being added, then the issue may be a bacterial bloom caused by a buildup of organic material in the water. Cloudy aquarium water at this stage is often considered to be part of “New Tank Syndrome” (if it's new tank syndrome then check our notes - as soon as there's a note for it lol).
A cloudy freshwater aquarium is often the result of a bacterial bloom occurring because of excess dissolved organic materials in the water column.
Organic material can come from fish waste or excrement, uneaten fish food, dead plants, dead fish, dead snails or other detritus or debris. Organic materials can also exist in water coming right out of the tap. Therefore, it’s good practice to keep an aquarium clean and free of excess waste to prevent the buildup of organic materials to levels where they become problematic.
The key to dealing with cloudy aquarium water is figuring out exactly when the cloudiness started and then working through the issues smartly, methodically and patiently. When cloudy aquarium water occurs, aquarium hobbyists should take notice and think about what else happening in the tank:
Clear Cloudy Aquarium Water By Removing Organic Materials:
The better way to deal with cloudy aquarium water is to remove the excess organic materials that are causing the bacterial bloom in the first place. This can include:
It’s important to be delicate when lifting fish waste from the bottom of the tank. Use a net to gently scoop out as much as the floating debris as possible. Fan the net gently over fish waste laying on top of the gravel or substrate…creating current to lift heavier detritus or debris up off the bottom and into the net…and then remove it from the tank. If an aquarium gravel vacuum is used, try not to overly disturb the aquarium gravel or substrate, as this could release more organic waste into the water column. And follow up by moving the net through the water column to remove floating debris as well.
Along these lines, be careful when cleaning excess organic materials from the aquarium filter or filter media. Be sure to not accidentally release more fish waste back into the tank while cleaning. And take care to not damage or destroy the anaerobic nitrifying bacteria in the filter box or filter media. Damaging or destroying an aquarium’s biological filter may cause a mini-cycle or a full blown aquarium cycle…further complicating matters.
A water change is not recommended to clear a bacterial bloom. When the free-floating heterotrophs are removed, the others will reproduce even faster to compensate, thus worsening the bloom. If left alone, they usually dissipate in a few days. In an established tank, however, the source of the problem should be removed. Clean the gravel, remove decaying matter, don’t overfeed, reduce overstocking, etc. And be aware of the oxygen shortage issue. However if your tank needs it due to a lot of waste products, debris, gunk and/or in general your tank just really really needs it then clean your tank.
NITRIFYING BACTERIA (also called positive, beneficial or good bacteria):
Nitrifying bacteria aka the good or beneficial bacteria, are present after successfully cycling a new tank. Nitrifying bacteria provide natural biological aquarium filtration and are responsible for breaking down organic waste within the fish tank.
Transforming ammonia to nitrite, and nitrite to nitrates. Nitrifying bacteria settle on rocks, gravel, filter media, sand, bio-wheels, etc.
Let’s take a closer look:
Nitrifying bacteria (nitrifiers) consist of two bacteria species. Both separate, but dependent. While the first strain settles as soon as ammonia is present, the second one settles as soon as nitrites are present.
Nitrifiers rely on a biochemical reaction (oxidation) by the means of using oxygen as a way of transporting electrons, drawn from the ammonia / nitrite compounds. Just imagine oxygen as a garbage collector. Under low oxygen levels, the bacteria use nitrite / nitrate as an acceptor, or garbage collector, reversing the process from nitrifying to denitrifying (removal of nitrates).
As an aquarium is loaded with oxygen, the bacteria need ammonia in order to stay alive.
Fish respiration and decaying food provides ammonia in sufficient amounts to ensure the proper function. So in theory: Without ammonia, the bacteria will enter a resting phase without loosing much of their energy, ready to get to work again once ammonia is available.
Conditions required for nitrifying bacteria:
As for temperature, the bacteria prefer a range from 65 – 85 degrees Fahrenheit. The activity of the bacteria will progressively decline as the temperature changes. Anything over or under that makes it very hard for the bacteria to live.
Life threatening conditions are reached at 95 degrees; adding just a few degrees and the activity comes to a total stop. As the preferred temperature range corresponds to most fish keeping requirements, temperature is of less concern.
Also of lesser concern is the salinity (salt content of the water). Nitrifiers are adaptive to a sizable range of salinity, satisfying all salt-water species. Interesting in this case is that the bacteria can adjust to changes in salinity without loosing their activity. Interesting, because you can switch from freshwater to marine (or vice versa) while transferring the existing bacteria to the new tank. This also allows seeding marine tanks with water from a freshwater aquarium for cycling purposes.
Nitrifiers are light sensitive, especially toward ultraviolet (UV/ sunlight). Room light has a negative impact on bacterial activity as well. Colonizing the filter is therefore the preferred settlement of the bacteria, as it provides a dark environment. Light exposure (i.e. cleaning the filter) will not cause stress, as the time frame is too short allowing the colony to recuperate within hours.
The nitrifier’s colony creates a surrounding, slimy bio-film, as they clutter together. This somewhat protects the settlement from light exposure. Good films smell earthy, if otherwise, it is an indication of problems in the aquatic environment.
***It goes without saying that anti-bacterial (antibiotic) medication will have an impact on the nitrifying bacteria. The same applies to heavy metals. The interference might go unnoticed, but can also yield a detrimental effect.***
SOURCES:
www.theaquariumwiki.com/Bio-film
www.algone.com/nitrifying-bacteria-and-the-breakdown-of-organic-waste-in-the-aquarium
www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/member-submitted-articles/bacteria-freshwater-aquarium-74891/ - to read up on more types of bacteria.
www.aquariumcarebasics.com/cloudy-aquarium-water/
freshaquarium.about.com/od/aquariumglossary/g/Bacterial-Bloom.htm
So this note is about some of the more talked about bacteria that lives in our tanks.
BIO-FILM:
What is it?
Bio-film (biofilm) is a thin film on the surface of aquarium water, caused by the build up of protein from organic waste material. It is the structure bacteria build to support themselves growing on the surface where they get access to oxygen and the material.
What does it look like?
It can be spotted by looking at the surface at an angle to a light source and you may see reflected an oil like rainbow effect. It can also be directly seen by breaking up the surface of the water with a finger or stick to make bubbles. If bubbles form and last for more than a few seconds then you've got a bio-film.
Is it dangerous?
In certain circumstances (high bioload) it can reduce the level of oxygen to the rest of the tank. It can also stop CO2 getting released from the water so CO2 levels rise and so may cause asphyxiation to the animals in the tank including the nitrifying bacteria in a filter.
Causes:
- It can be caused in a new aquarium where the gravel release their organic debris and it settles on the surface.
- Unfiltered tanks or tanks with very little surface movement are more prone to this than well filtered tanks.
- It can be caused by a male Betta, Paradise or Gourami fish when he constructs his bubble nest. He uses his own mucus to form the bubbles.
- Tiny uneaten food particles or decaying plant may rise and gather at the surface.
- Tiny uneaten food particles or decaying plant may rise and gather at the surface.
- Add too much bottled bacteria may cause this.
Removing it:
Ensure an adequate water flow at the surface or provide aeration to break up the water surface. It will soon dissipate. In the immediate instance a fishnet can be used to take the film off the surface of the water. Using a filter or air stone and air pump will disrupt the surface of the water and take care of the problem for you.
BACTERIAL BLOOMS:
this is a condition in which a sudden increase in the number of bacterial colonies occurs, specifically bacteria that are suspended in the water column. The bacteria grows so rapidly that collectively they become visible to the naked eye, causing the water to become cloudy or milky in appearance. Sometimes the blossom is so severe it is difficult to see the fish.
Regular partial water changes and good tank maintenance will usually prevent severe bacterial blooms. In new tanks, the bloom will dissipate as the nitrogen cycle becomes established and stabilizes.
Established tanks rarely have them, except when the balance is disturbed. In an established tank, a bacterial bloom is caused by something that upsets the biological balance by increasing the organic matter too quickly, such as overfeeding, excessive decaying plant and animal matter, excess waste from overcrowding, etc. Here, the heterotrophs quickly reproduce by feeding on this organic matter. This produces ammonia as a by-product, and the sudden surge in ammonia overtakes the nitrifying bacteria that need time to "catch up." Live plants again help here, as they can imilate and/or take up considerable quantities of ammonia faster. Note that the bacterial bloom causes the rise in ammonia, not the opposite as some may think.
Determine The Causes Of Cloudy Aquarium Water:
If cloudy aquarium water occurs a couple weeks after a tank is started, and after fish and food are being added, then the issue may be a bacterial bloom caused by a buildup of organic material in the water. Cloudy aquarium water at this stage is often considered to be part of “New Tank Syndrome” (if it's new tank syndrome then check our notes - as soon as there's a note for it lol).
- If cloudy aquarium water occurs after a tank cleaning, after a filter cleaning, or after stirring up aquarium gravel or substrate, then the issue may be the result of an excessive release of organic materials into the water column, and a bacterial bloom that follows.
- If cloudy aquarium water occurs immediately after tank setup, then the aquarium gravel may not have been rinsed properly and dust from the gravel has made its way into the tank.
- If cloudy aquarium water occurs after the initial water fill, or after a partial water change, then the issue may be from heavy sediment or minerals in tap water.
A cloudy freshwater aquarium is often the result of a bacterial bloom occurring because of excess dissolved organic materials in the water column.
Organic material can come from fish waste or excrement, uneaten fish food, dead plants, dead fish, dead snails or other detritus or debris. Organic materials can also exist in water coming right out of the tap. Therefore, it’s good practice to keep an aquarium clean and free of excess waste to prevent the buildup of organic materials to levels where they become problematic.
The key to dealing with cloudy aquarium water is figuring out exactly when the cloudiness started and then working through the issues smartly, methodically and patiently. When cloudy aquarium water occurs, aquarium hobbyists should take notice and think about what else happening in the tank:
Clear Cloudy Aquarium Water By Removing Organic Materials:
The better way to deal with cloudy aquarium water is to remove the excess organic materials that are causing the bacterial bloom in the first place. This can include:
- Removing excess uneaten fish food
- Removing dead fish or dead snails, if any
- Removing dead fish or dead snails, if any
- Delicately lifting fish waste, detritus, or debris from the gravel or substrate
- Carefully swishing out the aquarium filter with tank water
- Gently rinsing out aquarium filter media in a bucket of tank water
It’s important to be delicate when lifting fish waste from the bottom of the tank. Use a net to gently scoop out as much as the floating debris as possible. Fan the net gently over fish waste laying on top of the gravel or substrate…creating current to lift heavier detritus or debris up off the bottom and into the net…and then remove it from the tank. If an aquarium gravel vacuum is used, try not to overly disturb the aquarium gravel or substrate, as this could release more organic waste into the water column. And follow up by moving the net through the water column to remove floating debris as well.
Along these lines, be careful when cleaning excess organic materials from the aquarium filter or filter media. Be sure to not accidentally release more fish waste back into the tank while cleaning. And take care to not damage or destroy the anaerobic nitrifying bacteria in the filter box or filter media. Damaging or destroying an aquarium’s biological filter may cause a mini-cycle or a full blown aquarium cycle…further complicating matters.
A water change is not recommended to clear a bacterial bloom. When the free-floating heterotrophs are removed, the others will reproduce even faster to compensate, thus worsening the bloom. If left alone, they usually dissipate in a few days. In an established tank, however, the source of the problem should be removed. Clean the gravel, remove decaying matter, don’t overfeed, reduce overstocking, etc. And be aware of the oxygen shortage issue. However if your tank needs it due to a lot of waste products, debris, gunk and/or in general your tank just really really needs it then clean your tank.
NITRIFYING BACTERIA (also called positive, beneficial or good bacteria):
Nitrifying bacteria aka the good or beneficial bacteria, are present after successfully cycling a new tank. Nitrifying bacteria provide natural biological aquarium filtration and are responsible for breaking down organic waste within the fish tank.
Transforming ammonia to nitrite, and nitrite to nitrates. Nitrifying bacteria settle on rocks, gravel, filter media, sand, bio-wheels, etc.
Let’s take a closer look:
Nitrifying bacteria (nitrifiers) consist of two bacteria species. Both separate, but dependent. While the first strain settles as soon as ammonia is present, the second one settles as soon as nitrites are present.
Nitrifiers rely on a biochemical reaction (oxidation) by the means of using oxygen as a way of transporting electrons, drawn from the ammonia / nitrite compounds. Just imagine oxygen as a garbage collector. Under low oxygen levels, the bacteria use nitrite / nitrate as an acceptor, or garbage collector, reversing the process from nitrifying to denitrifying (removal of nitrates).
As an aquarium is loaded with oxygen, the bacteria need ammonia in order to stay alive.
Fish respiration and decaying food provides ammonia in sufficient amounts to ensure the proper function. So in theory: Without ammonia, the bacteria will enter a resting phase without loosing much of their energy, ready to get to work again once ammonia is available.
Conditions required for nitrifying bacteria:
As for temperature, the bacteria prefer a range from 65 – 85 degrees Fahrenheit. The activity of the bacteria will progressively decline as the temperature changes. Anything over or under that makes it very hard for the bacteria to live.
Life threatening conditions are reached at 95 degrees; adding just a few degrees and the activity comes to a total stop. As the preferred temperature range corresponds to most fish keeping requirements, temperature is of less concern.
Also of lesser concern is the salinity (salt content of the water). Nitrifiers are adaptive to a sizable range of salinity, satisfying all salt-water species. Interesting in this case is that the bacteria can adjust to changes in salinity without loosing their activity. Interesting, because you can switch from freshwater to marine (or vice versa) while transferring the existing bacteria to the new tank. This also allows seeding marine tanks with water from a freshwater aquarium for cycling purposes.
Nitrifiers are light sensitive, especially toward ultraviolet (UV/ sunlight). Room light has a negative impact on bacterial activity as well. Colonizing the filter is therefore the preferred settlement of the bacteria, as it provides a dark environment. Light exposure (i.e. cleaning the filter) will not cause stress, as the time frame is too short allowing the colony to recuperate within hours.
The nitrifier’s colony creates a surrounding, slimy bio-film, as they clutter together. This somewhat protects the settlement from light exposure. Good films smell earthy, if otherwise, it is an indication of problems in the aquatic environment.
***It goes without saying that anti-bacterial (antibiotic) medication will have an impact on the nitrifying bacteria. The same applies to heavy metals. The interference might go unnoticed, but can also yield a detrimental effect.***
SOURCES:
www.theaquariumwiki.com/Bio-film
www.algone.com/nitrifying-bacteria-and-the-breakdown-of-organic-waste-in-the-aquarium
www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/member-submitted-articles/bacteria-freshwater-aquarium-74891/ - to read up on more types of bacteria.
www.aquariumcarebasics.com/cloudy-aquarium-water/
freshaquarium.about.com/od/aquariumglossary/g/Bacterial-Bloom.htm
